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How the four-point system works for fabric inspection and what to do with the scores

A plain guide to the four-point fabric inspection system, how to score consistently, and how to use the data to cut waste and supplier disputes.

Two textile workers sorting linens in a factory setting.
Photo: EqualStock IN via Pexels

What this covers

  • The four-point system assigns 1 to 4 points per defect based on size and severity.
  • Thresholds are set per roll or per 100 square metres, not per metre.
  • Worked example shows how a 50 m roll with 12 points is scored and accepted or rejected.
  • Data can trigger supplier charge-backs, internal process fixes, or inventory regrades.
  • Fugen ERP captures every inspection, ties it to the batch, and posts the score to stock ledger.

The problem: inspection sheets pile up, nothing changes

Every week inspectors log hundreds of metres of fabric, fill out four-point sheets, and file them. The data never leaves the QC office. Suppliers keep shipping the same defects, internal lines keep cutting around the same flaws, and waste stays high. The four-point system itself is not the issue; it is the lack of a clear link between the score and the next action.

How the four-point system scores defects

The system assigns points per defect according to size and severity:

  • One point is given for a defect up to 3 cm long or wide.
  • Two points are given for a defect between 3 cm and 25 cm.
  • Three points are given for a defect between 25 cm and 75 cm.
  • Four points are given for any defect longer than 75 cm, or for a hole, stain, or tear that makes the fabric unusable for the intended order.

Only one defect is scored per linear metre, even if multiple defects occur in that metre. If two defects fall in the same metre, the inspector records the higher score. This rule prevents double-counting and keeps the math simple.

Thresholds: how many points per roll or per 100 square metres

Thresholds are set per roll or per 100 square metres, not per metre. Common thresholds in textile plants are:

  • Acceptable: up to 40 points per 100 square metres.
  • Second quality: 41 to 80 points per 100 square metres.
  • Reject: above 80 points per 100 square metres.

These thresholds can be adjusted for high-value orders or for fabric that will be cut into small pieces. A plant that makes baby clothes may set the reject threshold at 60 points, while a plant that makes industrial towels may accept 100 points. The key is to set the threshold before the roll arrives, not after the inspector sees the fabric.

Worked example: scoring a 50 m roll of 150 cm width

Illustration: a 50 m roll of 150 cm width has 12 defects. The inspector records:

Defect Size Points Metre
Slub 2 cm 1 3
Slub 4 cm 2 3
Stain 10 cm 2 12
Hole 0.5 cm 4 18
Tear 30 cm 3 25
Slub 1 cm 1 30
Stain 5 cm 2 30
Slub 3 cm 1 42
Slub 6 cm 2 42
Stain 15 cm 2 48
Slub 2 cm 1 49
Slub 1 cm 1 50

Total points: 12. Area of roll: 50 m × 1.5 m = 75 m². Points per 100 m²: (12 ÷ 75) × 100 = 16. The roll is well below the 40-point threshold and is accepted as first quality.

How to use the data instead of filing it

Inspection data should trigger one of three actions: supplier charge-back, internal process fix, or inventory regrade.

Supplier charge-back

If a supplier consistently ships fabric above the agreed threshold, the data can be used to deduct a percentage from the invoice. The percentage is usually set in the purchase contract. For example, a contract may state that fabric with 41 to 60 points per 100 m² is accepted at 90 % of the invoice value, and fabric with 61 to 80 points is accepted at 80 %. Above 80 points, the roll is returned at the supplier’s cost.

Fugen ERP ties every inspection to the purchase receipt, so the charge-back is calculated automatically and posted to the supplier’s account. The system also flags rolls that exceed the threshold, so the purchasing team can decide whether to return the roll or accept it at a reduced price.

Internal process fix

If the same defect appears in multiple rolls from different suppliers, the problem is likely in the plant’s own process. For example, if holes appear after dyeing, the dyeing line may need a tension adjustment. If stains appear after finishing, the finishing line may need a cleaning cycle. The four-point data can be filtered by defect type, by supplier, and by internal process step, so the maintenance team can see which machine is causing the problem.

Fugen ERP links every inspection to the production batch, so the data is available in real time. The business control centre shows a live chart of defects by type and by process step, so the production manager can see which line needs attention.

Inventory regrade

If a roll is accepted but has a high score, it can be regraded to second quality and used for orders that allow lower-grade fabric. For example, a roll with 50 points per 100 m² may be too flawed for a high-street retailer but acceptable for a discount chain. The regrade is posted to the stock ledger, so the inventory value is adjusted and the roll is reserved for the correct order.

Fugen ERP allows regrades to be done in bulk, so a whole batch of rolls can be regraded at once. The system also prevents a regraded roll from being used for an order that requires first-quality fabric, so the wrong fabric is never cut.

Common mistakes that inflate scores or hide problems

Inspectors and managers make the same mistakes every week. These mistakes either inflate the score, making good fabric look bad, or hide problems, making bad fabric look good.

  • Inspectors score every defect in a metre instead of only the worst one, which inflates the score.
  • Inspectors round up small defects to the next size category, which also inflates the score.
  • Managers set thresholds after the roll is inspected, which hides problems and lets suppliers off the hook.
  • Managers file the inspection sheets without reviewing them, so the same defects keep appearing.
  • Managers do not tie the inspection to the supplier or to the internal process, so the root cause is never found.

Fugen ERP prevents the first two mistakes by enforcing the one-defect-per-metre rule and by using a drop-down list for defect size. The system prevents the last three mistakes by requiring thresholds to be set before the roll is received, by flagging rolls that exceed the threshold, and by tying every inspection to the supplier and to the production batch.

What to do next week: four practical steps

Start with one supplier and one internal line. Pick the supplier that ships the most fabric and the internal line that has the most defects. Do these four steps:

  1. Set a threshold for the next roll from that supplier. Use the common thresholds (40, 80) or adjust them for the order.
  2. Inspect the roll using the four-point system. Record every defect, but score only the worst one per metre.
  3. Compare the score to the threshold. If the roll is above the threshold, decide whether to return it, accept it at a reduced price, or regrade it.
  4. Review the data with the supplier and with the internal team. Show the supplier the score and the defects. Show the internal team which process step caused the defects. Agree on a fix and set a date to review the next roll.

After one week, expand to the next supplier and the next internal line. After four weeks, the plant will have a clear picture of which suppliers and which internal lines need attention. The data will no longer be filed; it will be used to cut waste and supplier disputes.

Frequently asked

Can the four-point system be used for knitted fabric?
Yes, the same rules apply. The system scores defects by size, not by fabric type. Knitted fabric may have different defect types (e.g., dropped stitches), but the scoring is the same: 1 to 4 points per defect, one defect per metre.
How often should thresholds be reviewed?
Review thresholds once a year or when a new customer sets stricter requirements. If a plant starts making baby clothes, the threshold may need to drop. If a plant starts making industrial towels, the threshold may rise.
What if the supplier disputes the score?
The score is based on objective rules, so the dispute should be about the facts, not the opinion. Show the supplier the inspection sheet and the four-point rules. If the supplier still disputes, agree to inspect the next roll together.
Can the four-point system be automated?
Some plants use cameras and software to detect defects, but the final score still needs a human inspector. The software can flag potential defects, but the inspector must confirm the size and severity.
See it working

Everything above is how Fugen ERP actually behaves

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